Banarasi sarees definitely need no new introduction……..a rich woven fabric has been in existence in our country since the Mughal Era. But IFP does want it’s readers to know more about this glorious saree.
Banarasi sarees as the name suggests did originate in the city of Varanasi or Benaras to the locals. Banarasi sarees are usually woven out of the finest silks and have been the most sought after saree for weddings in the north-east part of India. Till date it is considered to be an integral part of any Indian bride’s trousseau. These rich silks have been passed down from one generation to another in many households.
The motifs range from florals, birds, paisley, buttis to leaves and a single silk saree can even take upto 6 months to be woven. Silk jamdani, jangla, jamawar tanchoi, and tissue are some of the types of banarasi sarees available today. These days the banarasi motif is also available in chiffon as well as georgettes so that women can wear it in their day-to-day life.
The silk Jamdani, is a variety of brocade woven in Banaras may be considered to be one of the finest products to come out of the Banarasi loom. Here silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and rarely with zari threads. Some of the traditional motifs of Jamdani included Chameli (Jas mine), panna hazar (Thousand emeralds) genda buti (marigold flower)pan buti (leaf form) tircha (diagonally striped) etc.
Jangala is one of the oldest form of a banarasi saree & also the most preferred during weddings. Jal Jangla design have golden or silver creeper motifs spread across the saree with a heavy border & pallu. Meena work can also be used on the Jangla to make it fit for bridal wear.
Jamawar Tanchoi is a form of banarasi brocade where 2 or more coloured silk threads are used to create the multicolour effect in a saree. Tanchoi is also used to create bridal lehengas by Indian designers.
The renowned Zari brocade weavers of Banaras has evolved a technique of weaving tissue material which looked like golden cloth. Tissue saris are most popular as wedding saris among the affluent. Tissue sari has glazed, shining character due to the use of real gold Zari/Silver Zari and are ornamented with the particulars traditional design such as Jangla Butidar, Shikargah menadar etc.
Any Indian designer who makes Bridal wear uses Banarasi silk to create that rich effect in their troussea collection. BAnarasi silk is also widely used to make men’s wedding achkans. Even our celebrities love to wear this silhouette on the red carpet and here is a look at how they rock in a Banarasi saree……..
Christian Dior V.P. India – Kalyani Chawla
Photo Courtesy : Style&sparkle, Indiatimes