Indian Fashion Police

Honest opinion about the Indian Fashion Scenario

Jatin Varma – ‘Demure’ combined with ‘Sophistication’

Posted by Indian Fashion Police on September 29, 2012

Ileana D’Cruz in a Jatin Varma outfit

There are many things that I would avoid wearing when it comes to western designs like loads of embellishments, animal print, laser cut designs,shiny sequins, voluminous skirt etc…………..but there are only a handful of designers in India who make these look like a dream on the runway.  A creation which makes your imagination run wild is what I describe as fashion. Such was the case when I viewed Jatin Varma’s work for the very first time during fashion week. But then came a thought in my mind…………will this designer ever reply to my request at interviewing him???

Amazingly Jatin did reply and gave me the answers to all of my fashion questions……….despite his busy schedule, the man did take out sometime for ‘Indian Fashion Police’ ……….all I can say is that I was blessed by the ‘Dark Angel’ ……. pun intended since this is the name of his recent collection as well;-)

Starting his very own label in 2001, Jatin Varma showcased his very first collection at Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week in 2006…….since then the outfits that he has created have been up for grabs by celebrities and their stylists. To future add to his laurels, He has also showcased his designs in London Fashion Week in 2009. His signature line is currently showcased in many stores like Debenhams, Lifestyle, Shopper’s Stop across India. His creations are also available in Saudi Arabia, Qatar, UAE, Germany, Norway, USA, Singapore, Kuwait, Egypt, United Kingdom. He was also nominated this year by International Apparel Federation for the International Designer Awards 2012.

Jatin Varma Designs on Magazine Covers

Jatin Varma creations are popular on the magazine covers as well as on the red carpet. ‘Indian Fashion Police’ gets behind the designer and his thoughts on fashion in our ‘Interview with the Designer’.

1. You started your career in 1997 and today have built a well-known label in the past 15 years. IFP would love to know about your journey till now?

Designing is something I have always wanted to pursue. In those days there was no clarity on the profession, what it entailed or what was expected of you. We are the second lot of experienced designers and I am sure our journey is very different from the founders and veterans of the industry today! My journey has been fascinating, and I have no regrets but I must say it has taken me a lot of hard work to get to where I am today.

2.   What inspired you to become a designer?

What inspires me to be a designer is the female form and how as a silhouette is there are so many different ways to achieve different looks. The grace and elegance that a woman withholds is what galvanizes me to form ideas. My collection vary greatly from season to season, from gothic to feminine, to edgy to bold!

3. Your recent collections ‘Glisten – Shine by Reflection’ & ‘Dark Angels’ are poles apart. Glisten has  structured silhouettes and laser cutwork …. A very futuristic collection while Dark Angels is very ‘Gothic’ inspired. How would you define it in your own words?

‘Glisten-Shine by Reflection’ is a collection, which brings out the exquisiteness of silhouettes and at the same time the cutwork gives the designs a tad bit of an edge. I have used very light colours, which helps in maintaining a balance. It started with a small swatch I saw, along with the idea of expanding my design aesthetics by doing something that was both feminine as well as futuristic! I chose to create an entire collection from fabrics that one would ideally never pick as first choice! Both the laser cutting technique along with the felt was concept that could have gone either way, having said that I feel the only way to evolve as designer is to continuously experiment , evolve and take risks!

‘Dark Angel’ is very ‘Gothic’ but with a modern twist where the colour palettes is kept in darker colours with touches of glitter and embellishments. ‘Boldness’ is the key element which has been featured through exaggerated shoulders, sheer fabrics and figure hugging silhouettes. In short this edgy line is for the strong, confident ‘diva’ who makes a statement with the bold Gothic undertones blended with uber sexy, feminine forms

4.You have worked for big fashion houses in India & abroad, any designer whose work you admire the most?

Working with fashion houses has stimulated my career in abundance and hence to just pick one of them would be very extremely difficult, as they have all taught me so much! I have learnt about the importance of the commercials viability of a collection, just being a hit on the ramp is not important, people may be in awe of your clothes but it fails to connect if the garments are not wearable. Another learning experience was to work on large volumes, but at the same time maintain the label aesthetics – the cuts, the fit, the finishing as well as the design aesthetics that come with it.

5.  Western-wear – from outfits to jewelry has been your ‘forte’, but will we ever get to see JV’s Indian inspired looks in the near future?

I have already worked on some Indian inspired attire. Hopefully, I will be able to showcase in the near future. Currently I do Indian wear on an order only basis, like I mentioned before I design aesthetics are highly focused around getting the right fit and silhouette. Having said that I work on collaborative labels in the Middle east and have found a way to combine gorgeous ethnic embroideries with a westernized floor length abaya or kaftan.

6. Your designs have graced the celebs on leading magazine covers and red carpet events. Anyone particular celeb you would love to design for?

I have had a very exciting experience dressing up celebs. I won’t lie; it’s a pleasure to see my designs on cover pages of magazines.

7.  ‘JV Couture’ is for the woman who is…….

JV couture is for a woman who is strong, independent and likes to make a statement wherever she goes and such women have always influenced my work.

8. Suggestion for upcoming designers………

A suggestion to upcoming designers would be to work with what inspires them as it always works wonders. And as Coco Chanel said, “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.” This has been the cutting edge of my work and I’m sure it will achieve volumes!

Photo Courtesy :

Jatin Varma designs on the red carpet

Genelia D’souza

Parineeti Chopra

Brittany Snow

Sonal Chauhan

Queenie Singh

Ankita Shorey


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